Coast to Coast
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Coast to Coast

Coast to Coast on an In-Growing Toenail

Read Mike McKever's hilarious account of walking Wainwright's famous Coast to Coast Walk!
 
"...the makings of a cult classic"  Ian Timms (BBC Radio Cumbria)
 
Follow a diary of one couple's progress through the magnificent scenery of Lakeland and North Yorkshire - landscapes that have made this one of the most popular long-distance walks in the world.  And then see how quickly the sublime can be reduced to the ridiculous as they get into all sorts of scrapes, or entertain us with numerous comic asides, witty reflections and grumpy old rants - not to mention amusing portraits of their fellow 'Coasters' and the people who offer accommodation along the route. A perfect gift for all sucessful or would-be 'Coasters', an ideal travelling companion for first-timers, or a delightful memory-jogger for experienced old hands with a sense of humor.

 
 If you enjoy walking...

If you
have ever thought about walking the Coast to Coast Walk...

 If you've already walked the Route and have memories you'd like to bring back to life... 

If you enjoy a great British laugh... 

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On line £9.99  Buy on Line Now
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Non U.S. Sales:  Please note that price is initially quoted in dollars until a non-U.S. delivery address is entered.
Special Offer - UK customers only: Buy direct from the author for only £9.99 (inc. postage and packing).  Email coastwalk@hotmail.co.uk

Book also available from:  County Town Books, High Street, Bedford and Castle Hill Bookshop, Castle Hill, Richmond, and The Bluebell Bookshop, Angel Square, Penrith


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WAINWRIGHT'S COAST TO COAST (Route C2C)


 

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Introducing Wainwright’s Walk

Unless you’ve been using a strong sedative you’ll be aware by now that we are about to set out on a hike along the much-acclaimed ‘Coast to Coast Walk’ devised by the famous Mr Alfred Wainwright.  Let me tell you a little more about it. Apparently he came up with the idea for this route after a sodden experience he had walking The Pennine Way in the pouring rain.  When he got home, (rumour has it), he lit up his pipe, spread out his Ordnance Survey maps on the desk, and drew a straight line across the north of England through the Lake District and the North York Moors – from the Irish Sea coast to the North Sea coast.  Then, rather after the fashion of Slartibartfast in the Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy, he proceeded to draw in all the squiggly bits in his own inimitable free-hand style, and the result was published in his guidebook called ‘A Coast to Coast Walk’.  This was back in 1973.

It is not, I might add, an official long-distance path created and sanctioned by authority, (although some authorities now recognise its existence.)  It is more of a freelance do-it-yourself job, a sort of bootleg version, if you’ll excuse the pun.  (Actually you will probably have to excuse rather a lot of puns.  You could say we’re in for a pun-ishing schedule!).  It was his free-wheeling individuality, as much as his love of landscape that led him to devise the walk and both still contribute to its special charm and character.  It has endured the passage of years, the threat of legal proceedings from aggrieved landowners, and the creation of a host of competing new long distance footpaths, to become, amazingly, one of the best known walks in the world.  And now it is about to endure us!

 
The River Swale Image

 

Trying to buy a meal in a pub!

The first pub we found on the square, The Castle Tavern, had a blackboard outside advertising an appealing menu of pub-grub, so we went in, grabbed a couple of menus, and made a quick decision.  I went to the bar to order.  Gill had her usual tipple, a half of dry cider, and I ordered a pint of Guinness.  I admit this was a mistake.  I could have ordered a half, but I like the feel of a pint glass in my hand.  I like to know that following that first thirst-quenching swallow there will still be some beer left in the bottom of the glass and I won’t have to immediately turn around and queue up at the bar to order another.  So I ordered a pint.  Yes it was foolish, selfish even, but I didn’t realise that precious seconds would be ticking away while the barman slowly, slowly pulled that long, lingering, creamy draught.

            “…and for lunch we’ll have…” I added, studying their menu.

            “...Sorry, we’re not serving food”, came his dull response as he topped off the pint and placed it on the bar.

            “But the blackboard outside…?  It says lunches served 12 to 2, and it’s only five to, or at least it was when I came in.”  It had taken so long to pull the Guinness that it was now two o’clock.

            “We’ve stopped serving food.”  The dead pan statement had an ultimate finality about it that no rational advocacy would ever penetrate.  “You could try the pub round the corner”, he said, “The Black Lion.  They serve lunches ‘til two-thirty.  Turn right outside and take the second on the right, it’s called Finkle Street.”

            “Ok”, I said reluctantly, “Come on Gill, we’ll go round to the next pub.”   However, as we started gathering up our things the barman called out “Oi! You haven’t paid for your drinks.”

            I only ordered the drinks to go with the meal.  I don’t want the drinks now.  What I want now is the food.  What I want now is to hot-foot it round to The Black Lion to make sure I can order lunch there before they stop serving too.  Shall we do a runner? Perhaps I should pay for the drinks with a flourished note and leave with dignity, an air of distain for his petty-bourgeois niceties… and no change?  Should I pay for the drinks and then pour them over the bar, or over the barman?  No.  I don’t want to spoil the holiday by causing a scene at the outset.  Reluctantly, I pay for the drinks.  And once they’re paid for my own petty-bourgeois tight-fisted nature demands that they have to be drunk, whether I like it or not – which I don’t.

            There is something about having to drink a pint of beer quickly that takes away all the pleasure for me.  I know the youthful binge-drinkers of today think nothing of pouring litres of lager down their necks at break-neck speed so that it never even touches the sides on the way down.  I wonder why those pop-pubs don’t just sell the kids a plastic funnel at the bar and then pump the lager through the sprinkler system; it would save a lot of time.  Binge drinking is not for me.  I like to savour a pint.  I like to take my time to fully enjoy the subtle flavours, to pay proper respect to the skill of the brewer and publican, and of course to spend less money of an evening.  Drinking a pint of Guinness, one that you really don’t want, at breakneck speed, is a kind of purgatory.  It’s like being forced to eat up every last scrap of your inedible school-dinner before being allowed out to play.  ‘Why do I drink this stuff?’ I start asking myself.  It tastes horrible.  Have I been fooling myself that I like it all these years?  I try to take larger gulps to get it down faster, but it won’t go and it makes me choke.  It hangs in my mouth like a bitter poison.  So I take smaller sips, but then the level in the glass won’t go down at all.  It’s regenerating itself.  It’s crawling up the inside of the glass as fast as I can I drink it down.  This has become a battle of principle, man against beer.  It’s been paid for and it’s going to be drunk, every last drop.  Somehow I can’t help but remember that around the corner at The Black Lion their clock is ticking away those precious seconds.

            Meanwhile a family come into the bar. 

“Are you still serving lunches?”

“No”, says the barman, (at least he’s consistent).  “Try the pub round the corner.  They serve lunch until two-thirty.  Turn right, then second on the right.”

The family leave. 

            Hang on a minute, I think.  We’re in the queue before them.  They’re getting a head start!

A fat, elderly American couple, wearing slacks and two-tone shoes, also waddle in off the street. 

“Say, can we get to eat here?”

            “No mate.  Try the pub round the corner.  They serve lunch until two-thirty.  Turn right, then second on the right.” 

They leave. 

A sense of bitter injustice is brewing inside me.  We are going to miss out again.  Those Americans are going eat all our food.  There will be nothing left but scampi and soup-in-a-basket by the time we get there.  Drink! Damn you! Drink!  Forget the indigestion that’s brewing along with the injustice.  Take no heed of the massive belch that’s threatening to force its way up from some deep resonant chamber far below the surface of the earth and erupt like a pyroclastic flow shattering eardrums and glasses across the whole of the north-east. Drink up man!

            Eventually, what seems an age later, we finish our drinks and leave, but not before yet another couple, two women secreted among a forest of carrier-bags, has also come in and been redirected round the corner.

            It’s not a race.  I wouldn’t be as childish as that, surely not? But we were first!  We thought about having a meal before they did.  It’s so unfair! We were at the front of the queue and now we’re last.  The legs are speeding up under me involuntarily.  My stride is lengthening.  These are hiker’s legs, and they walk fast. No, it’s not a race, but I feel a smug thrill of satisfaction as we overtake the American couple dawdling past the dry-cleaners, and then flash past the two women with the carrier-bags as we hurtle round the tight corner into Finkle Street in the outside lane and start to accelerate down the home straight.  The family has been delayed by one of their kids looking in a shop window.  The mother is trying to drag her away, like a dog owner tugging at the lead while their pup tries to cock its leg and pee up against a lamp-post.  We slip past them unseen and bolt into The Black Lion, back at the front of the queue at last. Justice has been restored.

            “Are you…?”  That’s me speaking, while gasping for breath.

            “…still serving…?”  The father of the family, who has sped ahead on his own, has come in a close second.

            “…food?”  It’s the women with the carrier-bags rushing in to take the bronze. 

We chorus the question almost in unison. 

            Our orders were accepted somewhat reluctantly, and on condition that we all ordered at the same time - now.  There would be no pawing over menus in relaxed anticipation.  I chose a steak pie, which I felt could be transferred from the freezer to the micro-wave and thence to the plate without too many opportunities for things to go wrong.   To be honest it wasn’t too bad, although the last few bits of crust felt as if they might once have been attached to a leather-back turtle.  At least it was short crust and not one of those ridiculous flaky pastry pie crusts that blow up like a balloon and force you to spend weeks excavating down through layer after layer of something that looks and tastes like grease-proof paper -  before you can have the slightest hope of finding any morsel of meat at the bottom.

            We sat in the window seat, where a brass plate advises ‘Please vacate for musicians if requested.’  This is a peculiar instruction, but I am a musician as it happens and as the space does indeed seem to have been vacated, I feel my musical talent has at long last been publicly recognised.  Time for a triumphant trumpet blast, I suggest to Gill.  She replies, sotto voce ‘If you fart out loud, I’m going to walk home!’

 Angle Tarn
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 Larking with Laxatives

I tend to get dehydrated and suffer from constipation when I’m on holiday.  I don’t know why. Usually it resolves itself after a few days – if not it gets ‘bombed’ out with a laxative suppository.  Incidentally, a word of warning for anyone tempted to cure the problem in this way - remember that the fuse on this ‘bomb’ has a very precise timer.  I proved this one year in Madeira. 

I had walked into town from my hotel on many an occasion.  I knew precisely how long it took.  You couldn’t call it gambling – not exactly.  With the bomb armed and the timer set I had two options.  One was to remain in the hotel until it went off, but run the risk of missing the bus that I intended to take that day to explore the Island.  The other was to take that oft-trod walk into town where I knew a convenient public convenience awaited me. It was a stone’s throw from the bus station, and left plenty of time to catch the bus.  It was an easy enough decision – or so I thought.  How was I supposed to know that the convenience would be closed for maintenance today?  Now a sort of panic sets in.  The timer is set.  There is no way of de-fusing this bomb.  In precisely three minutes and counting it goes off come what may, irrespective of location, the surrounding civilian population, trousers up or trousers down – bang! Off it goes.

Five!  My eyes scan the horizon for a place of safety.  The sea front; I’m pretty sure there’s another convenience down there.  Yes I remember; it’s one of those horrible continental things, with a hole in the floor just big enough for you to drop in your loose change, car keys, passport etc, but there’s no time to be fussy now.

            Four!  I dash across the road.  My pulse is racing. 

            Three!  Scan for the Gents sign.  Located!  Lock on!

            Two! “OK chaps, I’m taking her in now.”

            There’s a poor harmless bloke sitting in the doorway.  It’s not a pleasant job cleaning the toilets and he makes a worthy contribution to society in his own small way.  He’s a disabled Gent who’s employed as toilet attendant by the local municipality. As I approach he rises on his crutches to perform one of the two very important functions he fulfils whenever men enter upon his premises.  One of these is collecting a small cash contribution.  However, he has not made allowances for the speed of this approaching rocket-propelled human time bomb.  I fly past him on my laser-guided trajectory and right-angle it straight into the first cubicle with seconds to go, leaving the cavernous building ringing to a torrent of unintelligible Portuguese invective.  It sounds like a station announcer at St Pancras reciting a speech by Mussolini.  But it’s too late to do anything now. The timer is set.  What will be… will be.  Tick-tock!   Tick-tock!   Tick…

Boom! The depth charge erupts.  Uncontained by the surrounding blast walls of a conventional toilet pan the shrapnel flies in all directions, like the expanding universe emerging from the rear end of a black hole.  Floor, walls, shoes, legs, (and the trousers concertinaed around them), are all despoiled and laid waste.   It is only at this point that I recall the other small but important function performed by the gentleman at the door, namely issuing a small piece of toilet tissue to each customer.

 
 
 
 
 
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